![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.n4rfc.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/04\/O2Sensor062.jpg\" "\\"O2Sensor06\\"")
<\/a><\/p>\nAccessing the sensor from above is just about impossible on the C4 Corvette, so you will have to get at the sensor from the below the car.\u00a0 I found that the socket was the best fit on the drivers side sensor, and the offset wrench worked better on the passenger side of the car.<\/p>\n
The O2 sensor socket is a specialty tool that has a slot cut in the side to allow a exit for the sensors wires.<\/p>\n
Even though this is a socket for a 3\/8 inch square drive, I recommend you purchase a socket that has a hex on the top like the one shown here.\u00a0 This allows additional flexibility because you can also use it with a box or open end wrench on the top hex.<\/p>\n I used the socket with a 1 inch box wrench to get the drivers side sensor out and back in.<\/p>\n Because of close clearance with the starter on the passenger side, I needed a offset sensor wrench on that side of the car.\u00a0 This is intended to be used with breaker bar (in the square) and like the socket has a slot to allow the wrench to go over the wire leads.<\/p>\n Ok, let’s change the sensors.\u00a0 I had to remove the air dam from my car to get the floor jack far enough under the car to get it jacked up.\u00a0 You can jack the front of the car up by placing the floor jack under the front cross member.\u00a0 Be careful of the oil cooler that is mounted right in front of the cross member. (I believe this cooler is for the power steering fluid)<\/p>\n Place the jack stands under the frame rails just behind the front wheels.\u00a0 Be careful and set the stands so that they are nice and stable.\u00a0 My stands have small notches in the tops, so I positioned the frame seams in the notches so the stands couldn’t slide around.\u00a0 Of course, never get under a car that is supported by only a jack(s).<\/p>\n Fish the connector down and disconnect the sensor from the harness connector. The is a small clip on one side, push the tab up and pull the connector halves apart. Put your socket or, in this case, the sensor wrench, over the sensor and work your breaker bar into the drive square. Remember, you are working from the “opposite” side, so it is no longer “Lefty Losey, Righty Tighty” It is backwards from this angle. Break the sensor loose and then you should be able to remove the breaker bar and turn the sensor out with just the wrench.<\/p>\n Before you put the new sensor in, check it to see if it’s threads are already coated with anti-seize compound.\u00a0 If not, place a small amount of anti-seize compound on the threads, only the threads.\u00a0 Make sure that your anti-seize is O2 sensor friendly.\u00a0 You should never use any sealers, cleaners, or other compounds on a fuel injected motor that aren’t O2 sensor friendly.\u00a0 Put the new sensor in and turn it in finger tight.\u00a0 For me, getting the sensor’s threads started was the most difficult part of this process. The close quarters combined with the odd angle of the sensor made it hard to do. Then put the socket or wrench on it and tighten it 1\/2 additional turn .<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n